Volume 2, Issue 14 June 22 - July 5, 2000

I'm a recent college grad with messy hair and a small income. I like food. But it has to be good, and there has to be wine there too. Yeah, and it would be nice to eat it in a fun and beautiful setting. I would rather spend my measly paycheck on a great dinner and bottle of Chardonnay than on a happy meal from McDonalds and a keg of Natty Ice, while sitting in front of the TV, like some numb-tongued friends of mine. But there is some intimidation, some media-inspired innate fear I get when I walk into a place where I don't know how to pronounce the name. Stereotypes dance in my head, of fancy jewels, stuffy, tight conversation, and a snobby staff. Especially French restaurants. You know what I'm talking about. Everyone gets a little more intimidated, a little more gussied up before going to Chateau Fantastique than they do when they go to something like The Main St. Grill USA. Is it through media portrayal, or the association with high-class sophistication, that we see hip French dining like at Sacre Bleu somewhat intimidating?

But this is exactly wrong. Everything about Sacre Bleu, the new restaurant on 7th Ave. in Denver's Capitol Hill, is inviting, fun, warm and smooth. According to Sheamus Feeley, Chef d' Cuisine, "We are approachable, we aren't stuffy, and we are here for Denver to experience excellent food and atmosphere without any pretense." Feeley deciphered the name Sacre Bleu for me. "If the words are put together it means something like 'holy smokes': a sort of exclamation. If the words are taken separately, they mean 'sacred blue.'" This play on words is a wonderful way to describe the attitude of the restaurant. It has an aura of fun. It's candid and approachable, and yet on the flip side, it's serious about excellent food and wine.

Officially opened just two months ago, Sacre Bleu is a dream come true for proprietor and philanthropist, Julie Payne. Her dream was to create place where Denverites could walk into a beautiful restaurant, eat incredible food, and drink amazing wine. A year ago, the space, located at 410 E. 7th Ave., was a complete eyesore. Sheamus Feeley describes it as an "ugly shell that went through a complete chrysalis." And he is right. As I strolled in, I was immediately taken by the beautiful, eclectic design of the place. The dining area, bar, and cocktail lounge flow together in one open space. It is subtly hip, comfortable and not too trendy. Overflowing vases of fresh flowers, the polished Brazilian walnut floors, natural light, and incredibly close attention to creative and intimate room and bar details add an interactive sense of atmosphere to visitors. Even the bathrooms are cool. "God, I could just live here," I told to Feeley.

But of course, the point is to eat. A lot of new restaurants may get too caught up in the decor and the image, forgetting about the careful attention needed for the food, the taste. But Sacre Bleu is right on track. Head Chef, Don Gragg, creates a menu that is a blend of French Provencal, with touches of Mediterranean and United States influences. Feeley describes Gragg's philosophy as "keeping food simple, using quality, fresh, and pure ingredients, and the actual essence of the ingredient itself." Feeley describes an example of this in the mouthwatering Roasted Sea Bass with Simmered Fava Beans, 24-Hour Tomatoes, and Myer Lemon Relish. "It's the perfect balance, with the great earth tones from the beans, resining from the tomatoes, and the sweet sharp lemon." A favorite dish of Feeley's is the Pan Seared Diver Scallops With Coral Butter and Early

Truffles. He enthusiastically relays that "diver scallops are hand picked by divers, and not brought up in big nets where the shells can cut the meat of other scallops, lessening the taste ... and truffles ... well, they are a freak of nature that you can't even pinpoint what your eating, and why it's so great."

These amazing dishes don't come from just anywhere. Head Chef Don Gragg has a long resume behind him at some of the nation's finest restaurants. Some notable experiences include working with Alice Waters at the famous Chez Panisse in Berkley, California, Danny Meyers Gramercy Tavern in New York, and the Barolo Grill, Mel's Bar and Grill, and Starfish, all here in Denver.

Feeley, has an extensive background as well, with a large influence coming from his father, a chef in California where he grew up. Feeley's father trained him in classic French cuisine, yet Feeley has an extensive amount of experience in his travels and work in Mexico and Peru, as well as working with French Chef Patrice Piralla at the Denver Country Club, playing lead sushi chef at Wolfgang Puck's Grand Cafe, and also working at Spago in Beverly Hills. "Bragg has been a huge influence on me," Feeley says. "Don is so receptive to everything he has been around; he develops his own simple twist on things."

And they seem to be doing everything right. Sacre Bleu's easygoing, fun atmosphere, and affordable pricing has business booming every night. All ages and types of people are showing up, though the crowd does tend to be a little younger late night at the bar/cocktail lounge. Sacre Bleu seats 65, and is usually booked out full ahead. They serve off the main menu until midnight, and then switch to a full bar menu. The in-house DJ shifts the mood from easy jazz dining, to a more serious club sound as the bar begins hopping later in the night.

But what I think makes the place work the best is the camaraderie and love that the staff shares for each other. Feeley describes each and every one of the staff with such a humble affection and appreciation. "The restaurant can't run on just a few people, and the deep understanding, respect, and friendship that all the staff members share for each other just spills out in the ambiance, the food, the bar, and the clientele."

This attitude has propelled Sacre Bleu's involvement in some notable charities and fundraising events, brought together by proprietor, Julie Payne. Payne uses Sacre Bleu as a "portal" to support causes like the Light for Life Foundation, the Colorado AIDS Project, Boys Hope and Girls Hope, and the Jacquelynn Robins Ralphs Foundation. She says, "I am so excited to be able to give back to my community. Without them, I am nothing."

Feeley notes the importance of Sacre Bleu being a part of the community. "I have had children come in here at noon for a tour of the kitchen and how things work, and we serve them ice cream with warm blueberries ... it's that kind of thing that makes us approachable to everyone."

Feeling almost giddy with excitement for this place after talking with Feeley, I have decided that this weekend, I'm bringing my McDonalds-loving, keg-stand, TV junkie friends, my parents, my friends from New York City, and my chef uncle from San Francisco over to Sacre Bleu to experience what we all can appreciate: good food and wine in a fun, fresh, and delicious setting.