Volume 2, Issue 14 June 22 - July 5, 2000

Roy's

Cherry Creek Mall

303-333-9300

Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Dinner 5:30-10 p.m.

Having lived in Hawaii for eight years I was looking forward to some traditional Hawaiian cuisine at Roy's. It wasn't very traditional, but in retrospect I suppose there isn't much mainstream intrest in poi, spam, sticky rice slathered in mayonnaise and the like, so we will call this "da kine tourist stuffs." I actually saw a few Hawaiians on staff and asked about some traditional fare, and was assured that with a little advance notice, "we can make 'em like you like 'em."

Not that I didn't like 'em how they made 'em on this visit. The ambiance was straight up Chinese minimalist modern with a touch of Hawaiian flair: slightly surreal, but not Daliesque. Our server, Laura, sat us and even placed napkins on our laps, which came in handy for the appetizer...

...baby back ribs. There was a hint Seschwan afterthought, Hue Sin and sashimi flavoring, traditional brown sugar, sesame, basil, and ginger. Succulent and flavorful. So good, it made me contemplate the redeeming qualities of pork as an art form (note to self, pig painting ... hmmmm).

The main course arrived as I was sipping on my cheesy umbrella-laden Virgin Lava Flow (make sure you order something to wash this thick drink down). I ordered macadamia nut encrusted Atlantic salmon with lobster sauce. This expensive dish was good, but nothing special. The real treat was underneath my salmon, where I uncovered a little taste of heaven on earth called Wasabi potatoes. Absolutely outstanding! Just a little bit of butter and just enough wasabi to make you say ... waaaaah-saaah-biiiiiiiiiiii!

The freak content of Roy's is zero, but no attitude from the staff, even after screaming "waaaaah-saaah-biiiiiiiiii!" My tattoo grade is new school with attention to detail, and the wrestling grade weighs in as an easy work out but enough high spots to make the crowd stand up and shout. B