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Volume 3, Issue 22
October 25 - November 7, 2001

Tattooed Food Critic - Bobby Black

OUT OF THE DARK
@
TARANTULA CAFÉ

1456 Champa Denver
720-932-6666
11 am - 4 am 7 days a week

I was just creeping around a few of the coffee shops downtown, exuding kind of an aqualung vibe of depravity when the need for sustenance arose. I had been in a truly dark state of mind for days, residing somewhere between Hannibal Lector and Captain Howdy. I was fairly convinced that I wasn't truly dangerous.... well, not in the conventional sense. But I did seem to be getting a little creepier as the days wore on. Being hungry coupled with this Hannibal-esque vibe that I had developed wasn't lending to very comforting thoughts, so I figured I had better get something to eat as soon as possible before it got out of hand.

Before I knew it, I was wandering down Champa marveling at the dichotomy of lives taking place around me. Business people were scurrying about in their well-pressed clothes, always behind schedule, never enough hours in the day. The homeless shambled among them hoping an outstretched hand might be caught in the distracted gaze of someone in the midst of a cell phone conversation. Here and there were a few backpack-laden teeny boppers listening to their disc players, maintaining a level of oblivious aloofness to the hustle and bustle around them.

Then amidst the usual flora and fauna of the urban jungle I saw a tiny dark flower growing. There was this little vampiric creature dressed in black from head to toe, standing facing a building with her alabaster face turned upward. A slim hand shielded her sunglass-shrouded eyes from the cruel light as she tried to make out the sign before her. I stood motionless watching the breeze tug at the lacey ebony fabric of her dress wondering what could have drawn this rare bird from the velvet darkness of her nest.

Then an unusually thick bustle of people grew up around her, swirling like a tide pool and in an instant she was engulfed. When the tide ebbed she was gone, the spot where she had stood a moment ago seemed strangely vacant. I decided I had to see for myself what she had found so alluring. Completely unyielding to the onslaught of on-coming traffic, I crossed the busy street never taking my eyes off of the spot that she had disappeared from. The honking of car horns and angry shouts of drivers were barely audible, I would not be deterred from my quest! I had to see what she had seen! Nothing else mattered!

As I threaded my way through the traffic jam I had inadvertently created, a red neon sign was coming into view it read; Tarantula Café. Just beneath the sign were two tall arched wooden doors like the kind you might see at the entrance of a medieval castle. Behind those doors I found a long staircase, which I of course climbed to the top. Once inside I immediately forgot about the quest that had brought me in. There were pool tables everywhere, and I was standing in the middle of an Italian deli! As usual I was a little hungry, so I grabbed a table amidst a few business people.

Ami, the owner, came over, welcomed me and took my order. I decided on the beast, hot roast beef with provolone, avocado and red onion on rosemary sage, onion bread topped off with homemade mustard and mayo. It turned out that with lunch you get free pool games so I tried out one of the custom tables. Absolutely perfect...I suck at pool but the table was so awesome I almost looked good playing! Before long my food arrived and I headed over to the deli part of the place.

I submitted Ami to the usual Q&A as I ate. The thing I found most interesting was his passion for food and service. After running a couple delis in New York he came here and opened up his third. Most of the food is imported, including all of the deserts, and every sandwich is made to order.

As we talked I ate my beast sandwich; it was obvious why it was called the beast. I could barely get my mouth around it! The roast beef was as tender as it could be and the homemade mayo and mustard were better than anything I have ever had. For desert I decided to try the tiramisu, an area in which I consider myself to be a connoisseur of sorts. It was by far the best I have had in years, as a matter of fact, my vote for best in Denver! I enjoyed an espresso over a game of chess with Ami while we talked about his plans for the near future.

The installation of a cyber Café is in the works. And in a couple of months he will be serving beer! A couple of other really cool things Ami is doing are starting at about 9 pm on the weekends. DJs like Kid Metric play until 4 am. And one Saturday a month the Tarantula stays open all night and serves a continental breakfast Sunday morning!

The one thing that Denver nightlife has been lacking is a place to come after the party is over. Up until now you always ended up at one of the downtown greasy spoon dives that put a damper on the night's festivities. Now you can end a night of partying by mellowing out in a classy atmosphere with some great food and music. So not only is the Tarantula Café a great place to eat and play pool but it's a much needed shot in the arm for Denver's abundant nightlife. Just what the doctor ordered! A+

www.noctul.com

All Rights Reserved © 2001 Go Go Media, LLC, Denver, Colorado


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